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Lifestyle : Taste of Asia
1HERSA1 E019 Specially blended to match the spicy tastes of Asian cuisine WWW.RYUYAKINIKU.COM.AU RYU YAKINIKU SHOP 173-175, WESTFIELD BURWOOD, BURWOOD RD | P: 9715 5566 SUSHI TRAIN | JAPANESE STYLE BBQ | FUNCTION ROOMS AVAILABLE GOOD FOR GROUP MEETING OR BIRTHDAY PARTIES www.DirectFromJapan.com.au 458 - 460 Hume Highway, Cnr Cooper Road, Yagoona NSW 2199 Tel: 9790 0692 Open Mon - Sat: 10am - 6pm 50m left side from Yagoona Station. Sydney Area 15-30 mins drive. Millions of Authentic Japanese Ceramics St Honoré Bakery is a traditional French bakery offering a wide variety of breads, cakes and fresh pastries. With breakfast and lunch also available from our Mosman restaurant menu it’s worth a visit. Shop 2/40 Miller St, North Sydney Tel: 02 9929 4388 Open: 6am-7pm Weekends 6am-6pm WINNER WINNER 2010 Business Achiever Awards 2010 Business Achiever Awards Shop 3/555 Military Rd, Mosman Tel: 02 9969 6303 Open: 6.30am - 6pm daily www.sthonorebakery.com.au St Honoré Bakery Bon appétit! Bon appétit! AG4383388AA-130911 The Sydney Morning Herald Tuesday, September 13, 2011 19 good living taste of asia special report Dim sum delight Dishing it out . . . (from left) Heaven Leigh of Bodhi on the Park with chef ‘‘Kitty’’ Xiao Hong Huang; Bodhi’s yum cha spread. Photos: Steven Siewert Sydney has embraced yum cha — in all its forms, writes Carli Ratcliff. Y um cha is believed to have originated during the 8th century in Guangzhou, south China, when tea house proprietors offered small snacks of dim sum to patrons. As yum cha spread to the cities, and across the world, it moved from tea houses to restaurants. Sydney having taken the concept to its heart, has myriad versions, from vegetarian spreads to yum cha for dinner. Leigh Whong established Bodhi, the city’s first vegan yum cha, in Haymarket 23 years ago. Ten years ago Whong’s daughter, Heaven Leigh, opened a second outpost, Bodhi on the Park, at Cook and Phillip Park. ‘‘Mum started Bodhi as a Buddhist vegan restaurant and we have maintained the vegan ethos,’’ Leigh says. ‘‘We still offer traditional dim sum, but have planned our menu to ensure we take advantage of local, organic ingredients.’’ Bodhi’s Hong Kong trained chef, ‘‘Kitty’’ Xiao Hong Huang, is one of Sydney’s few female yum cha chefs. ‘‘It’s a field dominated by male chefs trained in Hong Kong,’’ Leigh says. Chef Chui Lee Luk of Claude’s is a yum cha enthusiast. ‘‘ Yum cha has been a longstanding tradition in my family,’’ she says. ‘‘Like many Chinese families, it is the way we catch up.’’ Luk tends to eat at different yum cha venues around Sydney, trying to seek out the best offerings. She also thinks the service could be better at most places, but ultimately it’s the ritual that counts. ‘‘The whole family enjoys it, the kids run around and everyone eats too much,’’ she says. Dim sum vary regionally. Green Gourmet in Newtown serves Shanghai wor tip dumplings filled with tofu and mushrooms, which are popular with customers, as are the steamed barbecue ‘‘not- pork’’ buns. Colin Fung began offering a yum cha lunch sitting on the weekend at the request of his vegetarian and vegan customers. ‘‘Our yum cha is popular with meat eaters, too, keen to try vegetarian versions of their favourites,’’ Fung says. Fisherman’s Wharf Seafood Restaurant at Sydney Fish Market takes full advantage of its location. Most of the dim sum are made with ingredients straight from the market floor, including prawn toasts, scallop dumplings and pork su-mai (pork and prawn parcels). In Chinatown, East Ocean has done away with the trolleys. Famous for its Hong Kong-style yum cha, patrons fill out cards indicating, by number, their selection. Food is cooked to order, as it is at Chef ’s Gallery, where Hong Kong- born chef ‘‘Marble’’ Guang Ng presents a yum cha dinner menu, including Australian wild prawn dumplings topped with caviar and flying fish roe.
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