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Lifestyle : Taste of Italy 2012
1HERSA1 E012 AG4925725AA-200312 SATURDAY & SUNDAY 31st March & 1st April 2012 10.00am - 5.00pm Broke Fordwich Wine & Tourism Association BUON APPETITO! Check in at the Passport Office in the village and get your passport to start your great journey BRINGTHISADWITHYOU-RECEIVE10%OFFALLFOODANDWINEALLWEEKENDATALL12PARTICIPATINGVENUES! Ground Floor Accenture/Google Building | Trouton Place, Pyrmont NSW 2009 | Opposite Fairfax Media | 02 8571 0616 | firstname.lastname@example.org SIGNORELLI GASTRONOMIA: Mon – Wed 10am – 6pm | Thur – Sat 10am – 10pm | Sun 10am – 4pm | TRATTORIA/RESTAURANT LUNCH: Mon – Sun 12pm – 3pm | Dinner: Thur – Sat 6pm – 9:30pm GROCERY STORE | WINE CELLAR | CHEESE ROOM | ANTIPASTO BAR | STONE FIRED PIZZA | RESTAURANT | COOKING AND DEMONSTRATION CLASSES www.signorelli.com.au OPEN: Lunch 7 Days Dinner Thur, Fri & Sat SCAN TO VIEW OUR MENU NOW AVAILABLE ONLINE BOOK NOW BOBOBOBOBOBOBOBOBOBOBOBOOKOKOKOKOKOKOKOKOKOKOKOKOKK NNNNNNNNNNNOW OW OW OW OW OW OW OW OW OW OWW BOOK NOW • Personalised small group tours • Leisurely paced touring • Expansive local knowledge • Meet and interact with the locals • Authentic Tuscan experience Tours of Tuscany tailors to your specific requirements to ensure you leave with the most wonderful memories. Our Italian heritage and fluency in the language means you can discover Tuscany in a truly unique and authentic way. Travel in luxury vehicles, meet the locals and enjoy the diversity that is characteristically distinctive of each township, taste the authentic Tuscan ham and salami, sample the local wines, shop at the markets and discover some of the hidden gems of Tuscany. T 0400 191 511 E email@example.com www.toursoftuscany.com.au JOIN US ON A SMALL GROUP TOUR TO ITALY IN 2012 Enjoy the easy travel, local knowledge, cultural appreciation and deliciously slow food... AUTUMN IN ITALY - SEPTEMBER & OCTOBER TOURS Tuscany & Umbria Venice, the Veneto & the Dolomites Language Tour NEW! Winter in Northern Italy - December 2012 www.italiantours.com.au email. firstname.lastname@example.org phone. 0419 439 551 special report taste of italy italy 12 Tuesday, March 20, 2012 smh.com.au Where the regions rule In this country’s charismatic cuisine, Carli Ratcliff discovers borders can define flavours. ‘Most Australians had never heard of this stuff.’ Giovanni Pilu ‘WhenIarrivedin1972, every Italian chef had the same menu,’’ says the chef and owner of Buon Ricordo in Paddington, Armando Percuoco. ‘‘No matter whether they were from the north or the south, the menu was: veal marsala, chicken cacciatore and pasta. Pasta served al dente, forget about it. In those days if you were cooking with garlic your customers rejected you.’’ Sydney menus, and patrons’ palates, started to evolve when chefs realised that specialising in the cuisine of their own region could help build a broader customer base, Percuoco says. ‘‘Because the food was the same everywhere, customers would only eat Italian every now and then,’’ he says. ‘‘I remember talking with other chefs, asking them, ‘Why not focus on our own regions?’ Our goal was to get customers to eat more Italian food: Neapolitan one week, Sardinian the next.’’ Italian food is intensely regional, says the author of Delizia: The Epic History of Italians and Their Food, John Dickie. ‘‘Italian food has charisma,’’ he writes. ‘‘And its charisma derives from an almost poetic relationship to place and identity. Italians eat so well because eating enriches their sense of where they come from and who they are.’’ Percuoco says: ‘‘In Italy, if you are Sardinian you grow up eating Sardinian food. If you are Neapolitan then so is the food you cook. The cuisine is created from what is there, in that place, right in front of you.’’ The chef at Il Piave in Rozelle, Vanessa Martin, was born in Sydney but her heritage and her cooking is Venetian. ‘‘My grandmother taught me to cook and she never used eggplant, tomatoes or chilli,’’ she says. ‘‘They were considered purely southern ingredients.’’ Neapolitan chef Flavio Tosolini, of Mosman’s Fourth Village Providore, says: ‘‘My grandfather never jumped on his horse to ride to the north for a bowl of zuppa di lenticchie e castagne [lentil and chestnut soup] just because he felt like it. It would have taken him three days. He ate what was there, what was grown in his town.’’ Tosolini has worked across most of Italy’s regions, from Florence to Rome, Lombardy to Sardinia. His food at Fourth Village draws from his experiences cooking in all these places. ‘‘Whichever region’s food you are cooking, simplicity is the key,’’ he AG4960855AA-200312 La Botte D’oro When Guglielmo (Memmo) Petrini disembarked from the ship “Guglielmo MARCONI” at Melbourne in 1969, he realised this was a whole new world and a long long way from Roma. He was at the ripe age of 23 and didn’t speak a word of English. In 1977, Memmo married his love, Debbie, and the very same year they opened La Botte D’oro, right here where it stands today. Memmo’s La Botte D’oro was one of the first Italian restaurants in Leichhardt and has stood the test of time. La Botte D’oro is one of the oldest Italian restaurants in Sydney. La Botte D’oro is celebrating it’s 35th year in 2012. Memmo is now looking forward to welcoming you and your next generation through the doors in the near future! BUONO APPETITO! Special deals & pictures @ www.labottedoro.com 137 Marion St Leichhardt 9560 1349 be friends with La Botte D’oro on Facebook! Memmo and Da Memmo and David P vid Petrini etrini Book online: www.gelatocart.com.au e. email@example.com or call 0449 681 282 Love g elato? Love GelatoCart. Bring YOUR EVENT to life with our authentic gelato and sorbet. Tuscan food, wine, tranquillity - the perfect place to stay Tuscan food, wine, tranquillity - the perfect place to stay Tuscan food, wine, tranquillity - the perfect place to stay a time to remember www.timeintuscany.com Darcy’s Italian Fine Dining Ph: 9363 3706 darcysrestaurant.com.au “At Portofino – good food, fine wine and a great atmosphere is our philosophy” We are open 7 nights a week & now also open for SUNDAY LUNCH. COME AND JOIN US... BUON APPETITTO! Ph: 9550 0782 www.portofinonortonst.com.au Bookings: 02 9739 8876 firstname.lastname@example.org www.cucinaviscontini.com.au ....... a culinary seensation www.silverspooncoffee.com .au Silver Spoon Coffee 184 Liverpool Rd, Ashfield - 2131 NSW We are now Serving Gelatomassi please feel welcome to come in and try one! On a bleary grey morning in a rather bleary grey street, a mural of the steps of an Italian villa offers a visual escape, with its rusty autumn colours and draped vine. This mural covers one wall at Silver Spoon Coffee and brightens and otherwise wouldnt-necessarily-write-home-about-it café. The black-and-white chequered floor and smattering of utilitarian tables and chairs are perfectly fine, as are the light globes hanging from the ceiling. The place here is unhurried and with Italian Arias playing over the sound of bacon sizzling. Its not quite lolling about in my own private Italian villa- but it sure will do. Now open for late night trading Thursday, Friday & Saturday from 6pm 10pm ESPRESSO RISTRETTO MACHIATO PICCOLO LATTE LONG BLACK CAFFE LATTE FLAT WHITE CAPPUCCINO MOCHA La Trattoria Taste of Italy on Norton St Present this ad and receive a complimentary glass of wine 159 Norton Street, Leichhardt, NSW 2040 Ph. 02 9569 9994 good living italy Tuesday, March 20, 2012 13 Distinctive . . . (clockwise from main) Flavio Tosolini from Fourth Village Providore; Vanessa Martin, Il Piave; Ormeggio’s bucatini; Danny Russo of the Old Library; Armando Percuoco of Buon Ricordo. Photos: Danielle Smith, Marco Del Grande, Stephen Baccon says. ‘‘Regional food tells the story of a place. To my mind it should be made simply, from the produce that is best on the day. It shouldn’t be overworked. The final dish should taste of the ingredients it is made from.’’ The chef at 42 Bannerman Trattoria and Bar at Glenhaven, Sam Mammoliti, says: ‘‘Using what is around you is the basis of all Italian cooking.’’ Mammoliti was born in Sydney, but his family hails from San Giorgio Morgeto, in the mountains of Calabria. ‘‘The guys from up north consider it the third world,’’ he laughs. Despite the ribbing, he remains true to his southern heritage, cooking dishes passed on from parents and grandparents. ‘‘I tend to stick to what I know, which is Calabrese food, but occasionally someone will pass on a recipe they think I’ll enjoy,’’ he says. His recipe for pasta finocchio (fennel pasta) was given to him by a Sicilian customer. ‘‘The Sicilians are very proud of their region and their food, they don’t like to be called Italian,’’ Mammoliti says. The consultant chef at The Old Library in Cronulla, Danny Russo, was born in ‘‘downtown Five Dock’’, but his roots are in the Basilicata region of the south. Bordering Campania, Puglia and Calabria, he says the Lucani – as Basilicata locals are called – are likewise proud of their food. But unlike Sicily, the influences of other regions can’t be ignored. ‘‘In Basilicata the food changes as dialects change,’’ Russo says. ‘‘In the east of Basilicata the food is more Pugliese and on the western side it is more Neapolitan.’’ And food typical of the centre of Basilicata is different again. Minestra maritata (marriage soup) is the region’s most famous dish, Russo says. ‘‘My mother made it for me the day before my wedding.’’ The soup has onions, garlic, leaves including swiss chard and escarole, fennel, zucchini and carrots thrown in the pot. Meatballs are added just before serving. ‘‘It uses what is available on the day, usually whatever is growing in the backyard,’’ Russo says. If Sardinian-born chef Giovanni Pilu, of Pilu at Freshwater, can’t find what he is looking for, he makes it himself. ‘‘Certain ingredients that are purely Sardinian weren’t available when I arrived in Australia,’’ he says. Particularly bottarga (pressed fish roe), carta di musica (crisp bread) and fregola, the small balls of toasted semolina pasta particular to the island. ‘‘Most Australians had never heard of this stuff,’’ Pilu says. ‘‘We either had to make it from scratch or import it. As time has gone on, we import less and less.’’ Lombardian Alessandro Pavoni, the chef and co-owner of Ormeggio at the Spit and Spiedo at Westfield in the city, agrees. ‘‘I use ling in Australia to make baccala, instead of cod,’’ he says. ‘‘The whole point of Italian cuisine is to look at what is available in the local ecosystem. That is what makes cuisine regional.’’ Using local ingredients does have an impact, Russo says. ‘‘There is no point being stubborn about it, we have to remember we are cooking outside Italy,’’ he says. ‘‘Italian food abroad is an evolution, you need to adapt your ingredients to where you are. Tomatoes grown in India are bitter, not like Italian tomatoes, so you need to tweak recipes. But that doesn’t mean it’s not Italian food.’’
Northern Territory 2012
Blue Mountains 2012