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Lifestyle : taste of Seafood 2012
1HERSA1 0016 Enjoy dinner or lunch for two at Waterfront Restaurant on Sydney Harbour A freshly caught seafood platter, side dishes & bottle of Lakeview red or white wine. $230 now only $109 www.docksidedeals.com.au/featured/waterfront-special-october Atlantis 58-62 Delhi Road, North Ryde 2113 | Reservations 8899 8980 www.atlantisseafood.com.au Hot and cold seafood platter for 2 $130Char-grilled South Australian Calamari served w/ chorizo sausage, & balsamic olive oil Snapper Pie w/ creamy mash potato & roasted vince ripened tomato try some of our signature dishes..... AG5230327AA-170712 special report Seafood Taste of Classic catches The mullet is back . . . Sixpenny in Stanmore's James Parry; (left) his mullet and lilies dish. Photos: Sahlan Hayes The nation's waterways team with delicacies this winter, writes Ellen Connolly. W hen asked which seafood he most enjoys cooking at this time of year, chef James Parry, of Sixpenny in Stanmore, nominates the humble mullet. The underappreciated fish is one of his favourites and he encourages others to give it a try. ''It's a sweet, slightly oily fish and deserves more credit than it gets,'' says Parry, who is a particular fan of Coorong mullet, also known as yellow-eye mullet. ''It's a widely underused fish but we love it because of its unique flavour.'' The mullet is sourced from the Coorong, a saltwater estuarine area of South Australia where the Murray River meets the sea. While available throughout the year, the fish's flavour is considered best in winter because the mullet spawns in the open sea during April, then returns to the Coorong to feed and fatten up in the shallow, very salty water. At Sixpenny, Parry has introduced it to diners, served with edible day lilies and large capers pickled in his house-made cider vinegar, in a potato consomme. ''We see it as an opportunity to introduce people to the lesser-known fish and so next time they're at the fish shop, they might buy it,'' Parry says. ''I think the biggest problem with fish is people go for what they know -- tuna, salmon or flathead -- and so the challenge is trying to make people a bit more adventurous.'' Mullet is not hard to find -- Parry says it is sold at the Sydney Fish Market or customers can ask their local fishmonger to order it in. For home cooks, he suggests baking it whole, or serving it pan-fried with salted capers. ''You could also replace the potato consomme with a few roast potatoes, then dress the dish with a light vinaigrette,'' he says. For Fishmonger's at Bondi owner Claire Statham, silver dory is her favourite seafood this time of year as it is abundant, well-priced and versatile for cooking. ''We're loving it at the moment and have done for many years,'' Statham says. ''It's from the same family as John Dory, mirror dory and king dory, so it's white and fleshy, not flaky like cod. ''It's a medium-flavoured fish, so what I tend to say to customers when describing flavour is it's slightly more on the savoury scale than sweet.'' Fishmonger's silver dory is sourced from the NSW south coast. Statham's chef cooks the delicate fish on a very hot grill with a few fresh herbs or spices, or marinated in a Moroccan, Portuguese or Cajun spice mix. When cooking silver dory at home, Statham recommends seasoning it with some coriander and chilli, then wrapping it in foil or banana leaves. ''We find that by wrapping it in foil
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