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Lifestyle : taste of Seafood 2012
1HERSA1 0017 AG5231210AA-170712 Get hooked on our innovative seafood menu and spectacular views firstname.lastname@example.org www.flyingfish.com.au T +61 2 9518 6677 Ferry Road, Glebe. Bookings 02 9518 9011 www.boathouse.net.au email@example.com lways the reshest at h $60 PER PERSON DARLING HARBOUR Ph: 02 9211 0315 LOCATED IN THE HEART OF SYDNEY'S DARLING HARBOUR VOTED NSW'S FAVOURITE SEAFOOD 2012 Tantilise Your Tastebuds! WITH OUR FAMOUS SEAFOOD CHOWDER, CRAB & PRAWN TORTELLONI, BBQ KING PRAWNS, GRILLED SALMON & CREME BRULEE. 5 COURSE DEGUSTATION MENU www.bluefishsydney.com.au good living Hooked . . . (from left) Fishmonger's owner Claire Statham prepares a feast of silver dory; Jaaning Tree's Clayton Donovan; and the sumptuous Nambucca River oysters. Photos: Dallas Kilponen, Russell Pell it steams the fish, without drying it out,'' she says. ''Cooking time is critical and the less you turn and prod this delicate fish, the better.'' She advises between 10 minutes and 15 minutes in an oven or on a barbecue. On the NSW mid-north coast, chef Clayton Donovan has been enjoying an unusually good supply of Nambucca River oysters. ''They're not supposed to be available until September at the earliest, but the world has changed and they're abnormally abundant,'' says Donovan, who owns the one- hat Jaaning Tree Restaurant at Nambucca Heads. ''Charlie [Ford], my supplier, just says that no two seasons are the same any more.'' The final stretch of river between Macksville and Nambucca Heads is the breeding ground of the premium oyster, which Donovan describes as ''sweet and small with a light ozone flavour''. ''They're a stunning oyster,'' he says. ''The flavour is just amazing.'' The oysters are shucked to order at Donovan's restaurant and there is a rule in the kitchen that they should never be cooked. The indigenous chef says they are best eaten straight from the shell, with a squeeze of lemon or simple Asian-style dressing. ''I know how hard the farmers work and you can't substitute flavour,'' he says. ''You can't re-create what nature has given you. We just let the love shine out of the oyster.'' Wholesaler Wayne Hulme, of Joto Fresh Fish at Botany, says there are exceptions when it comes to cooking oysters. St Helens Pacific oysters, which are in great supply from July to September, are best deep-fried due to their large size, and served in mini burger rolls with coleslaw, Hulme says. ''The general public are turned off by these oysters because they are so big, but that's why I like to deep-fry them and make little hamburgers, which are known as oyster po'boys,'' he says. Hulme says the plump oysters, grown for seven years, hail from St George's Bay, Tasmania's largest fishing port, and are sold at the Sydney Fish Market. ''They're pretty spectacular,'' he says. ''Whereas the Sydney rock oyster is really creamy with a rich flavour, these have a simple flavour -- sweet with a mild saltiness.'' Chef and co-owner of Apollo at Potts Point, Jonathan Barthelmess, says John Dory is a beautiful fish during the winter months. ''Right now there's so much around and it's such a good fish to cook with,'' he says. ''It has very delicate flesh. To me, it is always cooked very simply, over the charcoal or in a pan with either butter or a Sicilian olive oil and lemon juice.'' Everything at Apollo is cooked over wood, Barthelmess says. ''We cook meat earlier in the day and our fish gets cooked to order.'' He says John Dory sourced from Australian or New Zealand waters is of superior quality. At Chinatown's East Ocean Restaurant, head chef Xu Zheng is making the most of mud crab, which is in good supply and affordable. While he buys it at auction from the Sydney Fish Market, he says consumers will find it at seafood stores or their local fishmonger. ''We buy one-kilogram mud crabs because this size is always meaty, firm and full of flavour,'' says Zheng, who prefers mud crabs from Queensland's Sunshine Coast because its shells are thin, ''which means more meat and less shell weight''. He recommends stir-frying the crab meat with ginger and shallots to bring out its natural flavour. Also worth trying are pipis, which are very cheap in July and August, Zheng says. ''Pipis are plump, sweet and tender when they're in season,'' he says. He stir-fries the pipis in XO sauce or with black bean sauce, making the shellfish an ideal winter dish.
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