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Lifestyle : Focus on Italy Special Report 2013
1HERSA1 0017 17 goodfood .com .au The Sydney Morning Herald La dolce vita: (From far left) Ormeggio at the Spit's Alessandro Pavoni; Via Napoli's Luigi Esposito; Fratelli Paradiso's artisan pasta; Pompei's gelato. Photos: Wolter Peeters, Steve Lunam, Jennifer Soo, Tanya Lake Go on, see for yourself Lucio's Pizzeria 1/248 Palmer Street, Darlinghurst, 9332 3766, luciopizzeria.com.au. Pompei's 126-130 Roscoe Street, Bondi Beach, 9365 1233, pompeis.com.au. Stella Blu 18 The Strand, Dee Why, 9982 7931, stellablu.com.au. Lucio's 47 Windsor Street, Paddington, 9380 5996, lucios.com.au. North Bondi Italian Food 118-120 Ramsgate Avenue, North Bondi, 9300 4400, eqpg.com.au. Ormeggio at the Spit D'Albora Marinas, The Spit/Spit Road, Mosman, 9969 4088, ormeggio.com.au. Via Napoli Pizzeria 3/141 Longueville Road, Lane Cove, 9428 3297, vianapolipizzeria.com.au. Pilu on the Beach Moore Road, Freshwater, 9938 3331, piluatfreshwater.com.au. Fratelli Paradiso 12-16 Challis Avenue, Potts Point, 9357 1744, fratelliparadiso.com. Buon Ricordo 108 Boundary Street, Paddington, 9360 6729, buonricordo.com.au. community. In Naples, if you take away the pizza frita and the margherita, then there is no pizza. Finally, many Australians understand you don't need 1000 different toppings. At Lucio's I order the margherita, which is beautiful and very complex, and at Via Napoli, I order the calzone fritto, which is lightly fried and filled with ricotta, fior de latte, cacciatore salami and pepper. Italians don't want stiff service and the restaurants I go to when I have a night off have a way of looking after the customer that is very much Italian. There's a huge atmosphere at Via Napoli. There are people screaming and singing in the street and Luigi has a real affinity with the public -- he's always laughing and joking around. If I want to eat food from the north of Italy, I go to Lucio Galletto's Lucio's in Paddington for the fazzoletti neri al fruitti di mare (black-ink pasta with seafood). Chef: Robert Marchetti Equipaggio Restaurant Group (which includes North Bondi Italian Food and Neild Avenue) The Italian footprint is very strong in Australia but there is no such thing as a truly Italian restaurant here. The only truly Italian restaurants are in Italy. In Australia, what we have are simply great interpretations. I eat at Fratelli Paradiso six times a week and the chef there is actually Japanese. I live around the corner in Elizabeth Bay and one of my closest friends, Marco Ambrosino, is the owner of Fratelli Paradiso, so that helps make it feel like my second home. Fratelli Paradiso makes really beautiful artisan pasta and it has that Italian cafe feel that I love, with the hum of the coffee machine and the happy chatter of customers: it's like a canteen. I've been eating there for 11 years and I've never had a bad experience. The menu changes with the seasons but there is one dish that always stays -- scampi with spaghetti in a chilli and tomato sauce. I also love the Sardinian pasta -- gnocchetti sardi osso buco. No matter what mood I'm in, I can always get what I want at Fratelli Paradiso because they understand what the No. 1 Italian ingredient is: restraint. My father is from San Benedetto del Tronto, on Le Marche coast of Italy and seafood is one of my lifelong passions. I also love the way Lucio Galletto [at Lucio's] treats his ingredients. My favourite dishes on his menu are tagliolini alla granseola [fine green noodles with blue swimmer crab] and the whole snapper baked in rock salt. I also eat at North Bondi Italian Food as often as I can and it doesn't get much better than grabbing a table on the deck and ordering a plate of rigatoni with slow-cooked sausage ragu and a glass of Carpazo Brunello.
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